Friday, June 16, 2017

Stains, stencils, and concrete OH MY!

I've been waiting quite awhile to post this. Over the Memorial Day weekend (actually we took Friday off to have a full four days) we completed an awesome project. The first of our backyard projects for the 2017 summer.

First, the final product: 




There is a little dust on the lens of my phone, but you can see what we accomplished! Two awesome rugs! Except they aren't rugs. It is STAIN. Everything you see on the concrete is concrete stain.

Wow!

Here is our before: 



While we loved our patio, the muddy dog paws, grass stains from my overzealous whacking, and just overall stains made doing this project really satisfying. The work was literally back breaking -- hence waiting so long to post the pictures and explainer.

When I say we took four days for the project, I mean we took four full days.

Here is our process: 

We read and read some more. We followed this blog post from "The House of Wood." 

We bought the following: 
Our patio is 16'x48' with a little piece that juts out an extra 2'. In terms of gallons of stain bought, we bought two white gallons, one green gallon, and four gallons of the dark grey. We only used two gallons of the grey. 

We started by prepping the concrete by using the pressure washer and broom to get the initial grime off. I actually did this on Thursday so we'd be ready to etch the concrete on Friday morning after dropping the kids at school. Etching, I'm told, is very important since it roughs the surface up chemically and readies the concrete to soak up that sweet sweet stain. 

We bought a new pump sprayer at our local lumber yard (hey it was $8! Bargain!), filled it with the etcher and started spraying over the concrete. 

Mistake #1: the concrete was dry so the etcher just soaked right in making streaks of etched concrete. 

To add insult, the sprayer was not misting the etcher, it was shooting it in globs. Ick. So I now had globs of etcher fizzing and bubbling in uneven places.

I panicked slightly. 

I yelled. 

At this point I was doing this on my own and ran inside to get my wife to help. I figured out that the concrete should be damp and you have to immediately broom the wet etcher into the concrete. 

Your mileage might vary, but our concrete is about two years old-- so not old by any means, but certainly not new concrete. 

I thought the etching was a one person job, but it turned into: 

  1. I spray etcher while my wife sprays water to keep it wet
  2. I grab a "Deck Brush" and work it back and forth 
  3. Repeat and trade roles when you get tired
My recommendation: work in small sections. We were fortunate that the lines in the concrete gave us clear sections. 

We did this for the entire patio. 

We started at 9 and finished the sweaty job by 11. 

Now we had to neutralize the etcher. 


Here is where I tell you to trust me, use the neutralizer. 

I read the instructions on the etcher. It said "Let etcher sit for *blah blah blah* and then use a neutralizer." I looked at my mistakes etching above and figured I had better follow the instructions. 

See those steps above for etching? Repeat those exact steps for cleaning the etcher off. Now its at least noon on the first day. We ran out of neutralizer for one 8x8 pad. The stain didn't adhere as well to the concrete on that one. Make sure you get enough. 

Results: 

We had really nice concrete left! We even were able to get out stubborn stains that pressure washing alone wouldn't get out. 5/10 would not recommend doing this unless you have a full day. 

Then we had to let it dry. 

It was an incredibly hot day (90+) so this didn't take too long on the concrete. This gave us time to do some math. 

Honestly the project was mostly repetitive grunt work-- except for the math. 

The large stencil we did was 25"x25" but the interior stencil was 21.75". 

I didn't take pictures of our math paper, but you can see it in a later image. We basically decided how large we wanted our first "rug" based on the table I built last year (9'x3'). We wanted it wider and longer. 

5 stencils by 8. 

From there we just did math to find how big to paint the white. 

Very important: you cannot paint light stain on dark stain (easily), only the other way around. 

I knew this, but if you are reading this. Read the above again. Don't mess that up. 

We decided to paint a border on the perimeter of the whole patio so we measured and taped that.

Painters tape doesn't stick well to concrete. Especially broomed (those little grooves in the concrete) concrete. Just stick it down the best you can. 

Then we started brushing the white for the border with our chip brushes starting in a corner farthest away from where people would be in case we made mistakes. 



Mistake #2: brush the white away from the tape not into.

We ended up having to go back and "cut" with the dark stain. 


Mistake #3: make sure the patio isn't too hot for this or the stain won't soak in. 

Then we taped and rolled our "rugs." 


This part was fun because we could see some huge progress right away. The white looked great and soaked in really well. 

I also started rolling the dark concrete stain. 


My beautiful, wonderful, amazing, considerate wife began working on the stencil the next day after we let the stain soak and dry for 12 hours. 

We started in the same corner we started staining in. In case we made mistakes. 

Mistake #4: the blog we followed for the project said to swirl (or the stencil website) the paint/stain onto the stencil. This made a mess. 

My wife figured out that if you dab (lack of a better word...) the stain onto the stencil you get a great pattern with no mess. 
It was a lot of hands and knees dabbing for two days.

She's amazing. 


You can kind of see the mistake in the background. We fixed that later.
See the can of stain and paper towel square right above it? She figured out (did I say she is amazing) that you need to dip the stencil brush into the stain, then "dry" it on the paper towel and then do a dry brushing dabbing on the stencil. 



The stencil has dots in the corners that you overlap to get the rug style pattern.  


In this photo you can see that I stained the dark until I couldn't stain any longer without literally painting us into a corner. You also can see the back door. The builder never painted that-- it is just primed. Muddy dog paws love to soak into the white primer. I decided I'd paint that too. 

You also might notice it is getting dark too. 


In this photo you can see the finished "rug" and the aforementioned math notebook. You'll also notice how we "cut" with stain in the gaps. Cutting is a painting term for using a brush first to get the places a spray or roller will not get and then rolling over to blend. 

From here it is repeat and repeat. 

Lots of repeat. 

I kept the kids and the dogs busy, with only a few "no, no, NO! Don't go out that door!" While my wife did the majority of the work. 


Pretty much completed! 

Steps that you can't see: sealer. 

Mistake #5: putting two coats of sealer. 

Sealer is great because it makes sure the stain stays and doesn't scratch much. I decided if one was good, two was better. I put one on and it soaked in great and gave it a nice wet look. The next day I put another coat. It went on hazy (that's normal) but didn't go away in places. You would probably never notice. But I know. I tried lots of things to remove the wet look "haze" to no avail. I left it and now that it has been a few weeks, I hardly notice. 

We let everything dry completely for three days before letting anyone out on it. 

Overall, the project was worth it-- even if it did take us a lot longer than we thought. The patio is sealed and beautiful! 








Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Front porch benches!






When we moved, we doubled our space internally, but we also upgraded to a full acre. This meant a ton more work for yours truly, but also meant some neat projects. I now had a front porch surrounding this fabulous yellow door. 



Look at that beauty! Yellow door surrounded by white and dark grey (taken during construction). We wanted to frame the door with some tall planters and benches with pops of color. I wanted to make sure that the benches had a little character. 

I found these plans from Ana White and customized them to fit our space. I needed two benches-- one two panels wide and another three panels. For this project I used my favorite tools



I primed the wood with white oil based primer. 








Look at how that pretty blue pops against the stone and the wood grain! 

Turn some Lockers into a "Mudroom" in your Garage!

Well, many of you know the family moved into a brand new (read: empty) house over the past year. I'll be posting some of the many projects that we completed as we decided what we wanted to do with our blank canvas. 

Today we have this nice garage. Nice and bare. Great for piles of stuff. 

I found these lockers at a surplus sale. I love the idea of using old school stuff as decor--I am a teacher after all.


Here is what we started with: 


Check out the pile of stuff. We tend to drop stuff in this area in order to keep mess out of the house. 


I started by finding the height I liked best. Notice that ugly yellow and blue? We'll need to take care of that. I built a simple 2x4 frame for the base. You'll notice in this picture the frame is a bit too long-- this was one of my first projects and I miscalculated the dimensions. One other thing of note is that the slant at the top wouldn't allow for any storage up high. I really wanted some way to store as much as possible in this space so I had to figure out how to manage that. 


Here is a shot of the side of the locker. They were taken apart to best fit my space (originally were in sets of five. This meant that I lost some of the metal sides. I ended up purchasing 1/4 plywood and cutting to size to fill the sides. 

I began experimenting with ways to get storage up top. I decided I was going to wall mount a 2x4 to the wall above the top peak of the lockers and then use the down side as support for a shelf. 


The 1/4 plywood also acted as support. Here you can see the side with the plywood support. I simply screwed self driving screws into the supports of the lockers. 


We also wanted a place to sit while taking boots off or (as was the case today) putting snow gear on. I framed the shelf for the bench out of 2x4 and attached with 3" wood screws into studs. I then attached from inside of the lockers (making sure it was level each direction). You can also see the color we chose finally starting to look ok. It took nine bottles of spray paint to get the finish and color consistent. I need a paint gun. 


The bench with scrap wood pieces. The gaps are OK as I decided it would look good to trim the whole thing out with white MDF. 


A picture from a little farther away and we painted the way behind. I just used primer for all of the white paint. 






The lockers ended up looking great and are a great place for us to drop our stuff on the way in. I stained the bench top to match our floors and found some carpet squares (also at surplus) to give it a little more of a nice feel on those toes! 





Our MUST HAVE Tools

Here is an old post from our former blog! 


Our designs are customized versions of the furniture and projects on AnaWhite.com (sometimes Shanty2Chic.com collaborates as well) please visit her site, it is a GREAT resource!

Building tables is a fun exercise in patience. When you think you finally have your tools and project figured out, you find something that makes your job so much easier. Sigh... if only I had unlimited funds!

The first thing you must do, is pick great lumber. I get mine locally and have come to understand that good wood is hard to come by (here comes the laugh track). First and foremost, pick boards that are straight and flat! Check them at the store by eye and by laying them on the ground. If they rock, put them back!

We believe that choosing your tools should be based first on utility (no single use tools for us) and second on adaptibility (we favor Ryobi since they have so many affordable tools). BUT I'll never turn down a great deal on a used tool if it is in great condition (example-- I just bought this Ridgid reciprocating saw for $40!).

The links below are Amazon Affiliate links-- if you purchase through the links, we get a small percentage that helps us keep writing and creating for you!

Without further ado, here are our MUST HAVE tools:



Some people prefer the smaller alternative Kreg Jigs (truth be told, we purchased the R3 Mini Jig first) but for our work with large scale wood-- nothing beats the HD. We've found that anthing 2x or larger (2x2, 2x4, 4x4, etc.) the HD gives us a solid contact and really helps pull the wood together. A word of caution though: the screws are expensive and strong. I've pulled 2x10 lumber apart (see above for warping comment) with these screws. The drill bit gets quite dull over time since it is drilling such large holes. Plan to buy a new one by your fourth project.

I buy the screws in packs of 125 from Amazon and always keep two packs on hand. I use about 2/3 of the pack per table.

Alternative: I've used the Kreg R3 for many tables and find it works just fine for 2x+ lumber. The joints and screws aren't as strong though. The R3 is smaller and easier to get into smaller spaces. Consider the HD an upgrade!

Amazon links:
Kreg HD Jig
Kreg R3
Kreg HD Screws (125)



I had no idea how much I needed this in my life. For my first 20 projects I used a nice Dewalt drill (see below) to drive all of my screws. The drill would torque my wrist on tough screws and kill my shoulders with the force I had to give to each drive. No more! I got this Ryobi impact driver and worked on two tables and benches with it last weekend. I couldn't believe the difference it made. No wrist torque or shoulder fatigue! It is heavier than my drill, but I'm happy to report that the weight difference didn't make me as tired as needing to push on the drill to drive the screws. Full thumbs up!
*I bought the older one since it also came with two batteries, the difference in the two is a little torque and led lights--those weren't important to me.

Amazon link:
Ryobi Impact Driver





Ok-- sorry Ryobi. I have the Ryobi Drill/Driver and it does not come close to my old tried and true Dewalt for power. This is what I use to drill my Kreg HD pocket holes on all of my table projects. No, I haven't upgraded my Dewalt to 20v or lithium yet. I need to, but I have other tools I want to purchase!

Amazon link:
Dewalt 18v Drill and Driver


S
Believe it or not, I found this beauty for $5 at Goodwill (not my sander in the picture, thanks Google!). I use this to finish all of my products. I start with 80 grit sand paper and work my way up to 220 for the final sanding. I prefer 3M sandpaper.

Amazon links:


S=
I'm actually due for an upgrade on my miter saw. I'd like a pull through Dewalt (I've heard great things about their accuracy) but I'm currently using a Black and Decker 10" miter saw. The Diablo blades in the "ultra finish" take my so-so saw into the pretty-good range. I have used these blades from Dewalt in the past and have had good luck, but the finish of the blade requires a little more sanding. Less sanding=winning.


Amazon links (make sure the sizes will fit your saw!):

Kreg LARGE Clamp

I might have framed this post as the best put first and last. This is the LARGE version of the popular Kreg clamp. I love this because I work with a lot of 2x+ lumber (any 2x and up!) with my furniture. This is a secure clamp and works with one hand--sometimes I get hulk strength when tightening and have to use two hands though. Sure secure and works well with both Kreg jigs I have. Love this clamp. You can never have enough clamps!

Before I used this clamp, I used something like this. I didn't like it as much, but I didn't know any better until I tried the Kreg clamp.

Amazon links: